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Trailhead: Longs Peak Trailhead
Route: Longs Prak North Face, Cable Route, 5.4 2 Pitches.
Distance: 13.6 Miles
2-Tier Rating: Hiking - Moderate, up to 4th class scrambling
Climbing
- Easy, 5.4 Slabby, 2 Pitches, Bolted
Directions: From the junction of
US 36 and CO 7, East of Estes, travel South on CO 7 for approximately 9.2 miles to the Longs Peak Trailhead turnoff.
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| An image taken of the Diamond (East Face) |
The Hike: A long, gradual ascent to the infamous Boulder Field located 5.9
miles from where you began. Along the way, stay left of the Eugenia Mine Storm
Pass Junction at .5 miles, left of Jims Grove Junction at 2.5 miles, right of Chasm Lake Junction at 3.5 miles and left at
North Longs Peak Junction at the 4.2 mile marker. Once you reach the Boulder
Field, do not head towards the Key Hole but continue left (South) up towards Chasm View.
Up to Chasm View you will do some 2d to 3rd class scrambling over terrain that ranges from loose scree to slabby boulders. The base of the climb begins at Chasm View
at 13,500'.
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| John on lead, Cable Route |
The Climb: Begin the climb by stepping up and reaching left onto a slabby right facing dihedral.
Climb approximately 70' until you reach a nice ledge where you see the first bolt.
This begins the route where the old cable once rested. There are 4 bolts
remaining on the route. The fist at the base of the climb which serves as a nice
rappel station for the 2d half of your rappel down. The 2d and 3rd bolts are
located on the route itself. There are also several options along the route where
a #1 or 2 cam can be placed for a little extra security if felt necessary. The
fourth bolt is located at the top of the route and serves purpose a the 1st rappel station.
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| John leading |
The Scramble: From the top of the route, change back into your hiking boots and continue to
scramble up the North Face over 4th class slabby boulders, loose scree and rocks until you reach the vast summit of Longs.
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| Rapping |
The Descent: Scramble down the same way you ascended, being careful negotiating your way
down the slabs and scree. To me, this was the toughest part of a most enjoyable
day. Find your way to the first rappel station mentioned above and rappel down
to the 2d station. With 2 50 meter ropes tied together, your rap will take you
bellow the 1st ledge at Chasm View, taking a little less off your scramble down.
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| Me on rappel from the 1st rap station |
My Opinion: A great alternative to the Key Hole Route, fast and less traffic. This was my first alpine climb. Personally, I would have liked
to have done more climbing on the route but it was interesting to see how climbing above 13k' affected me. The pitches were quite easy but I could feel the thinness of te air during the climbing and experienced
some shortness in breath a lot sooner than normal.
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| Andy on Rappel from the first rap station |
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| Looking down from the suummit. Looks like the surface of another planet! |
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